The everyday outfit of Tambov peasant women consisted of a shirt made of homespun cloth with trapezoid (polikami) inserts on the shoulders and a checkered poneva. The latter differed from a simple skirt in stitching — a dark piece of plain fabric. Ponevas were worn so that the seam was at the front or slightly on the side as it wasn’t noticeable behind the apron.
The fabric for sewing shirts was woven by the people themselves. The manufacturing process of linen, hemp and wool was long and laborious. Throughout autumn, winter and early spring, all women in the house participated in it. Textile production continued until the start of sowing.
Sashes were worn by both men and women. These multi-colored belts were wrapped several times around the waist and tied in a knot. Its ends drooped freely. These sashes not only supported loose trousers, ponevas or shirts, but also played a role of one of the main pieces of decoration of the outfit.
Children of both sexes wore shirts from homespun cloth girdled with narrow sashes. Girls dressed like that until the age of 15-16. Then the outfit was complemented by bright skirts or sundresses. This is what was worn at girls’ gatherings and dances during celebrations. It was believed that if a girl put on a skirt over a shirt, you could send marriage proposals to her family.
The fabric for sewing shirts was woven by the people themselves. The manufacturing process of linen, hemp and wool was long and laborious. Throughout autumn, winter and early spring, all women in the house participated in it. Textile production continued until the start of sowing.
Seven-year-old girls performed simple work — unwinding threads, and after five years of that became experienced spinners. From the age of 15 they were sent to whitewash canvas. Weaving was considered the most important and difficult work. This was done by older women, 20-40 years old. The process began after the harvest: hemp was soaked in the river for two to three weeks, dried, then freed from the shives, carded and spun on long winter evenings.
Finished yarn was dyed black, red, blue or orange. In homes, people mostly could make only black threads. To make dye, hot kvass was poured on iron scrap. Most of the time, yarn was given to professional dyers.
Weaving began in early spring, during Lent. At that time, a weaving mill was brought into the house and put close to the window. Simple weaving techniques were usually used, although from time to time people resorted to more complex techniques. In addition to hemp and linen, woolen and semi-woolen materials could also be made at home. Ponevas and outerwear were then sewn from them.
Women also engaged in sewing using hemp thread. The styles of their outfits depended on the size of available fabrics. Casual clothes, such as sundresses and skirts, did not have wide hems.
