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#1
Women’s headdress, breastplate, belt
#3
Bekhan Dakhkilgov
Traditional women’s wedding headdress
#4
Women’s headdresses covered in expensive fabric are called “ega kiy” or “kiy”. This headpiece served as an important part of the wedding dress since the ancient times. The headpieces were shaped like a truncated cone with a flat bottom and decorated with gold and silver metallic patterns.

Over the centuries, Ingushetia developed its own traditions of metalworking. Due to a militarized life, the manufacture of edged weapons was especially valued; however, jewelry was also considered valuable: women’s breastplates and belts, brooches, buttons, medallions, patterns for headdresses, and other elements. The precious wedding sets were inherited and cherished as the most important heirlooms.

Unfortunately, presently, most of the ancient jewelry items have been lost as people sold them for a pittance or exchanged them for food during the challenging times (over the past centuries, the Ingush people have experienced several disasters, including the forced resettlement to Kazakhstan and Central Asia in the middle of the 20th century). But the very secrets of craftsmanship were passed from generation to generation, and today the traditions of the ancestors are continued by artist Bekhan Dakhkilgov.

The artist was born on June 1, 1961, in the village of Dolakovo of the Checheno-Ingush Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic. As a schoolboy, he simultaneously attended the Republican Art School in the city of Grozny. In his professional development, his family unconditionally supported his choice and helped the young man. The contributions made by his elder brother were significant, as well: he bought specialized literature and helped Bekhan in every possible way to prepare for entering a specialized educational institution.

In 1976, the future jeweler entered the North Ossetian Art School where he chose the department of artistic metal processing. After graduating in 1980, he asked to work for the Chechen-Ingush Art Fund, where he met artist Murat Polonkoev, who was already well-known at that time. He highly valued Bekhan’s hard work and perseverance and presented him with the opportunity to work in his workshop and helped him in everything.

Later on, his brother gifted the artist a portable jewelry equipment kit he bought in Moscow. In those days, it was a lavish gift. The artist still uses some of the tools from this kit.

Presently, Bekhan Dakhkilgov is one of the most famous jewelers of Ingushetia. He strives for perfection in every artwork he creates. He explained that he appreciated the curiosity and broad perspective on life in his colleagues: “Jewelers spend their entire lives with jewelry in their hands, and, therefore, they must know not only the specifics of their work but also have a good knowledge of history. Personally, for instance, I have always been interested in where the traditional Ingush ornaments originally came from, what these or those elements mean.”
#7
Полное наименование: Ingush traditional women’s headdress
Автор: Bekhan Alaudinovich Dakhkilgov
Дата создания: 2010
Техника: metal, filigree, red corundum
Размеры: height 15 cm, diameter 20 cm
Коллекция: State Museum of Fine Arts of Ingushetia
Правообладатель изображений: State Museum of Fine Arts of Ingushetia
#5
Bekhan Dakhkilgov
Women’s traditional breastplate
#6
The women’s breastplate with plates-fasteners is an element of the Ingush traditional festive women’s costume. It is called “dato”.

Since the ancient times, the fasteners had different forms, were decorated with precious stones or colored glass, engravings or filigree were added to them. They also had various lengths so that they fit the neckline of the upper dress - “chokha”. Usually, there were 12-13 symmetrical plate-fasteners on the breastplate from the neck to the waist.

This breastplate was made by famous jeweler Bekhan Dakhkilgov. To create such a perfectly smooth piece of jewelry, the master prepared a lot of wax models of future plate-fasteners, casting them in a special mold. He soldered the wax fasteners onto one rod — it is called a jewelry “Christmas tree” because the soldered onto it wax ornaments look like tree branches. He filled the “Christmas tree” with a special molding mass and fired it at a high temperature. During the firing, the mass hardened, and the wax flowed out – thus gaps were formed, into which the artist then poured the molten metal.

In the Ingush culture, there is a special concept of “eh-ezdel.” It means a set of ethical rules that every person has to follow. The costume plays a huge role in it: the ability to dress appropriately has always been considered one of the indicators of good manners and intelligence.

Traditionally, the Ingush have a special dress for each festive occasion. All types of clothing had their terms: everyday clothes were called “tsaga lelayu koch”, clothes for receiving a guest - “khyasha-da voage duvhar”, for funerary or birth rituals -"vennacha-vannacha duvhar.’ The festive costumes “yodacha-yoagacha duvhar” were especially carefully decorated.

Women’s outfits were multi-layered. Over the undershirt, they wore a dress with a standing collar decorated with embroidery, lace, or braids. Above it was a swing dress ‘chokha’ made of silk, brocade, rep or velvet. At the chest level, the ‘dato’ breastplate was attached to the first dress - it was placed so that the decoration was visible in the chokha neckline. The dress also had a patterned belt made of the same materials as the dato.

According to archaeological research, there were other types of women’s jewelry: silver, gold, and copper earrings and temple pendants; gold, silver, and copper rings, brooches for “kurhars” (headdresses), bell buttons, figured pendants, bronze patches, rings, and signet-rings with colored glass inserts.
#8
Полное наименование: Women’s traditional breastplate
Автор: Bekhan Alaudinovich Dakhkilgov
Дата создания: 2012
Техника: silver, gilding, rubies, casting, filigree
Размеры: 80×4 cm
Коллекция: State Museum of Fine Arts of Ingushetia
Правообладатель изображений: State Museum of Fine Arts of Ingushetia
#10
Bekhan Dakhkilgov
Women’s traditional belt
#11
Bekhan Dakhkilgov is the most famous jeweler of Ingushetia. He creates weapons, traditional male and female adornments, and household items. He draws inspiration for his artworks from the ancient Ingush art, and enhances the ancient ornaments with his artistic vision. The artist honed his skills for many years studying the techniques used by his predecessors and modern jewelers.

In 1976, Bekhan Dakhkilgov entered the department of artistic metal processing of the North Ossetian Art College. He holds the highest (fifth) class title in woodcarving and became the only Ingush jeweler who has mastered the technique of filigree.

The term “filigreen”, or filigree, derives from Latin “filum” meaning “thread” and “granum” - “grain”. In this technique, masters create intricate patterns out of thin gold, silver or other metal wire. The artist created this traditional women’s belt using casting and filigree, decorating the silver base with gilding and precious stones –     red corundum.

The decorated belt had long been the most important attribute of the wedding dress and always had a lot of precious and semi-precious stones as decorations. Together with the breastplate, made of metal plates-fasteners, they formed an ensemble.

The length of the ancient Ingush belt could not be changed without damaging the garment - it was impossible to remove a detail or add a new one. However, Bekhan Dakhkilgov has improved the traditional design of the wedding set: he joins the links with special fasteners, which, if needed, can be detached with a special small screwdriver. This way, one can insert longer plates into the belt or replace them with shorter ones, changing the length to fit any figure.

The jeweler also said he wanted to create a belt completely in filigree, without the metal plate on the inside, which ancient craftsmen used as a base. Then the intricate ornamentation will be clearly visible. It will look especially delicate and weightless, but at the same time it will be durable. Such belts can be worn by many generations.
#12
Полное наименование: Women’s traditional belt
Автор: Bekhan Alaudinovich Dakhkilgov
Техника: silvering, gilding, red corundum, casting, filigree
Правообладатель изображений: State Museum of Fine Arts of Ingushetia
Коллекция: State Museum of Fine Arts of Ingushetia
Размеры: 4×80 cm
#9
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