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Seamstresses’ workbox

Creation period
Late 19th century
Technique
Goldwork, braiding. Gold thread
8
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#1
Seamstresses’ workbox
#4
Richly decorated workboxes were called khyapschypyl. Seamstresses kept galloons, golden threads and everything they used while working. 

The Adyghe gold embroidery art has a long history. It became a popular home craft in the 17th century and soon gold embroidery, galloon weaving, braiding various decorative elements became an obligatory skill for girls and women. Girls began to be taught the skill at a very young age, when they were 6-7 years. 

Clothes embroidered with precious threads were very expensive. Their price included the cost of expensive materials and a high price paid to the seamstress for her painstaking and long work. It took a long time to embroider clothes, from a month to a whole year, depending on the complexity and ornamentality of the needlework. Therefore, only members of well-to-do families could afford them.
#7
The Adyghes used four types of goldwork: couching (laid-work), flat stitching, galloon weaving, and braiding and lacing.
The box from the Museum is done in the couching technique (dysh’e idag). It is the oldest and most valuable type of goldwork.
#6
Proceeding to work, seamstresses put ordinary white cloth on a tambour, took a stencil cut out of paper, carton or animal bladder, and traced it on the cloth with a pencil, thread or special soap. Then they made a silk thread base on the pattern arranging threads parallel to one another. With the help of a base like that it was more convenient for seamstresses to count stitches in complex decorations. 
 
Precious threads were stitched across silk ones. They were fastened to the base from below and only on the very edge of the ornament field. Very fine silk was used for ‘fastening’ stitches: orange for gold embroidery and white for silver. The result was a fine inner pattern.
#10
Couching required from young women pinpoint precision, high concentration, patience, and strength. One circle with the diameter of only a few centimetres might take 4-5 weeks.
When the seamstress finished her work, she treated her embroidery very carefully to make it stronger. The face was rubbed with a boar fang or a special smoother to make it perfectly smooth, and the reverse side was covered with glue to make it harder.
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Seamstresses’ workbox

Creation period
Late 19th century
Technique
Goldwork, braiding. Gold thread
8
Point your smartphone camera to open in the app
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Open in app
To see AR mode in action:
  1. Install ARTEFACT app for 
  2. iOS or Android;
  3. Find and download the «Paintings in Details» exhibition
  4. Push the «Augmented reality» button and point your phone's camera at the painting;
  5. Watch what happens on your phone screen whilst you flip through the pictures.
 
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