The “Melancholia” set was made in 1987 by the Ural jeweler Vladimir Nikolayevich Ustyuzhanin. It includes earrings and a brooch made from ebony, flint, and morion, set in a melchior and nickel silver bezel.
The pieces are made in the form of segmented metal plates. Their lower edges are adorned with delicate, slightly sloping festoons, while the surfaces are divided into alternating panels of stark black and cool silver by slender, curved metal partitions. Two round, black morion cabochons crown each piece.
The “Melancholia” set is a stunning visualization of its namesake emotion. The set conveys the most subtle human emotions and sensations, despite the somewhat utilitarian composition. It represents the image of a “black bird of melancholy,” capturing the ethereal beauty of its wings and the solemn grace of its soaring flight. The aesthetic is deliberately cool and contemplative, built upon a powerful contrast of bluish-gray and black hues. Ustyuzhanin achieves a figurative synthesis of metal and stone, crafting a visual experience from the finest shades of color and light, all structured by a whirlpool of smooth, yet still rapid rhythms.
Vladimir Ustyuzhanin represents the second generation of the renowned Ural school of jewelers. This generation emerged in the 1980s and moved away from organic forms toward clear geometry, logical composition, and unconventional uses of metal settings.
Ustyuzhanin’s unique style merges the principles of fine art with wearable practicality, and he is particularly acclaimed for his masterful work with faceted stones. Beyond his artistry, Ustyuzhanin is a celebrated curator, teacher, and innovator. He initiated the “Metal, Stone, Idea” competition named after Alexey Kuzmich Denisov-Uralsky and curated the UralJeweler exhibitions.
A member of the Union of Artists of Russia since 1983, Vladimir Ustyuzhanin has exhibited his works in many arenas — from local shows to international prestigious events like the De Beers competition. His pieces are held in Russian and international museum collections, as well as in distinguished private collections, including those of Raisa Gorbacheva, former First Lady of the USSR, and Nancy Reagan, former First Lady of the USA.
