The brooch from the “Birth of Stars” series, crafted in 1984 by the Yekaterinburg jeweler Vladimir Nikolayevich Ustyuzhanin, is made of amethyst set in silver. It features two curved metal loops of differing sizes that converge at a single point. Each loop is adorned with two faceted, transparent lilac stones in smooth silver bezels.
On the reverse side, the brooch bears the jeweler’s monogram — “UVN” — along with the year of creation, 1984. The “Birth of Stars” collection is renowned for its dynamic, elongated forms that evoke a sense of motion and upward momentum. Despite a rather restrained color palette, Ustyuzhanin masterfully contrasts the curved lines of the silver with the brilliant sparkle of the faceted stones.
Four delicate lilac amethysts were used in this piece. A variety of quartz, amethyst occurs naturally in shades of purple, bluish-red, and pink — with transparent specimens classified as semi-precious stones, while opaque varieties are often used as decorative materials. The mineral typically forms elongated crystals. In the Ural Mountains, it has been mined in the upper reaches of the Neyva, Rezh, and Aduy rivers.
The polished silver surface of the brooch catches the light, producing a subtle, almost mystical glow. Its flowing, organic shape resembles a flower that is about to bloom, while the overall design symbolizes the emergence of a newly forming star — radiant and ascending. Stripped of excess ornamentation, the piece draws strength from its simplicity, emphasizing the graphic precision of the metalwork and the quiet elegance of the stone.
Ustyuzhanin’s distinctive style — characterized by a harmonious balance of form and color — fully emerged in the early 1980s. In his hands, even modest materials like optical glass could be transformed into objects of rare beauty. The artist himself acknowledged, “I knew from the very beginning of my career that I wanted to create jewelry of the future. And I have remained faithful to that vision”.
His artistic interests are vast, and his craftsmanship continues to evolve. Driven by a deep commitment to faceted stones, an emotional connection to every creation, and a relentless pursuit of perfection, Vladimir Ustyuzhanin has established himself as a master of contemporary jewelry. His pieces are true works of art.
