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Chapeau claque — men’s top hat

Creation period
the 19th century
Place of сreation
Paris, France
Dimensions
30,5x24,5 cm
Technique
moire, cardboard, metal collapsible mechanism
Exhibition
0
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#1

The Lipetsk Regional Museum of Local Lore houses a traditional black chapeau claque hat made in France. The brim of the hat is smoothly curved upwards on the sides, while the crown is slightly narrowed in the center. The crown is decorated with a ribbon made of the same material as the hat, with a bow on one side. Inside the hat, there is a golden inscription indicating the name of the manufacturer “Henry” and the addresses of the shops in Paris — “33, rue Tronchet” and “30, rue des Mathurins”. This hat belonged to Nikolay Stepanovich Popov, a native of Lipetsk who was the Soviet trade representative in France in the 1930s.

The chapeau claque is a top hat collapsible through a hidden spring system. The hat model has been known since the 1830s. Its name is derived from the French words “chapeau” meaning “hat” and “claque” meaning “tap”, which hints at its functionality. The mechanism inside the hat allows it to be folded vertically. It was also known as the “mechanical hat”, as it could be folded by hitting the top with one’s palm. Indoors, the hat was carried folded under the arm. It was especially convenient in public places like theaters, where full-sized top hats had to be left in the checkroom or placed on the floor. Such an unusual design for a collapsable hat was invented by the French hatter Antoine Gibus. This is why the hat was also known as “gibus”. The first collapsible hats began to be sold in Paris and London in the mid-1820s and reached Russia by 1829. By the mid-1840s, chapeau claque hats had become a popular fashion accessory.

In “The Book of Snobs”, William Thackeray mentioned this fashionable element of a man’s outfit under another name “a gibus hat”,

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Chapeau claque — men’s top hat
#2

Ask little Tom Prig, who is there in all his glory, knows everybody, has a story about every one; and, as he trips home to his lodgings in Jermyn Street, with his gibus-hat and his little glazed pumps, thinks he is the fashionablest young fellow in town, and that he really has passed a night of exquisite enjoyment.

#4

Until 1914, a chapeau claque was an element of a ballroom costume.

#7
Chapeau claque — men’s top hat
#5
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Chapeau claque — men’s top hat

Creation period
the 19th century
Place of сreation
Paris, France
Dimensions
30,5x24,5 cm
Technique
moire, cardboard, metal collapsible mechanism
Exhibition
0
Point your smartphone camera to open in the app
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