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#7
Sewn-on Appliqué, Sew-on appliqué shaped as a ram skin with a knot in the middle, Sewn-on square-shaped appliqué
#8

Sewn-on Appliqué

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The sewn-on appliqué in the shape of a styled ram’s head was found in the BEra mound near the KOsika village in the YenotAyevsky District. This burial was opened and destroyed in 1984, when a water culvert trench was laid there.

Such small formed appliqués are often found in the rich burial mounds of the Sarmatian culture dated from the 1st to the 2nd centures BC. The items adorned with zoomorphic ornaments that depict animals are special. This is a so-called animal style associated with the Sarmatian tribes. Not only appliqués but also horse harnesses, jewelry, buttons, weapons and precious utensils, especially ritual dishes, were ornated with such animal images.

Each animal had its own interpretation behind. The most “popular” were predatory wild cats and graceful hoofed mammals, for example, deer or Asiatic wild asses; birds and horses, fantastic animals and rams are not rare occurences as well. The ram was interpreted as “a symbol of heavenly grace” in the Iranian myths. Nomads revered rams to the same extent as horses, since they satisfied the tribes’ vital needs in the form of: meat, milk, and wool. Rams are outlined symbolically on our appliqués, which is one of the features of the Sarmatian animal style. The bodies are absent on the appliqués, but the heads are depicted clearly to represent the animal image. We can see rounded horns and a triangular muzzle notched to imitate the animal mimic.

Such appliqués were sewn onto the fabric through small holes. Thus, they decorated clothes, hats, ritual objects and burial covers. Researchers suggest that to adorn one thing, various shapes and patterns were used, for example, zoomorphic details alternated with geometric or floral ones. Thus, a set of appliqués from the KOsika village burial mound gives an idea that the appliqués were sewn onto the fabric in a certain order to design various decorative compositions.

In 2005, the sewn-on ram head-shaped appliqués and other precious items were exhibited at the Astrakhan Steppe Treasures show at the National Museum of the Palazzo Venezia in Rome.
#20
Date: 1st century BC
Technique: embossing
Dimensions: 1,3×1,7 cm
Collection: State budgetary institution of culture of the Astrakhan region ‘Astrakhan Museum-Reserve’
Copyright: State budgetary institution of culture of the Astrakhan region ‘Astrakhan Museum-Reserve’
Goskatalog Number: 17112905
#12

Sew-on appliqué shaped as a ram skin with a knot in the middle

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The sewn-on appliqué was found in the BEra mound near the KOsika village in the YenotAyevsky District. This burial was opened and destroyed in 1984, when a water culvert trench was laid there.

The appliqué is made in the shape of a ram skin with a knot in the middle and holes for sewing onto the fabric. Such small formed appliqués are often found in the rich burial mounds of the Sarmatian culture. They were used to decorate clothes or burial covers: they were sewn onto the fabric through small holes or eyes. As a rule, appliqués of different shapes may be found in one mound. This suggests that they were sewn onto the fabric in a certain order to design various decorative compositions.

Scientists quite often find appliqués with zoomorphic motifs such as images of animals. This is a so-called animal style. The Sarmatians decorated their jewelry and horse harnesses, dishes and clothes buckles with symbolically-rendered images of animals. The ram was one of the most popular animals as it was very important for the everyday life of nomads. There are various items outlining a ram’s head, decorative horns or an image of an entire animal. Our object is a styled ram skin twisted in the middle of the appliqué. This pattern is called a Hercules knot. The ram personified “heavenly grace” in the Iranian mythology.

The women’s clothes of an ordinary representative of the nomadic population of the Sauromat-Sarmatian period probably were more or less the same as the men’s. This is explained by the fact that nomadic women had to wear clothes that were comfortable for riding. The Sarmatian society respected and honored women. Women served as priestesses and sometimes even participated in hostilities. Ancient authors wrote about such facts. For example, Herodotus reported that Sarmatian women “were hunting either with their husbands or alone, went to war and was wearing the same clothes as men.”

In 2005, the sewn-on appliqué from the Astrakhan Museum Reserve collection was exhibited at the Astrakhan Steppe Treasures show at the National Museum of the Palazzo Venezia in Rome.
#15
Date: 1st century BC
Technique: pressure forming
Dimensions: 1,2×1,8 cm
Collection: Precious metals
Copyright: State budgetary institution of culture of the Astrakhan region “Astrakhan Museum-Reserve”
Goskatalog Number: 17112929
#16

Sewn-on square-shaped appliqué

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The sewn-on appliqué was found in the BEra mound near the KOsika village in the YenotAyevsky District. The burial was opened and destroyed in 1984 in the course of laying of a water supply trench.

This item is attributed to the era of the Sarmatians. The Sarmatian ancient people represented nomadic Iranian-speaking tribes that inhabited the Earasian steppe area stretched from the Danube to the Aral Sea from the 4th century BC to the first centuries of our era.

The Sarmatian women decorated their clothes with sewn-on appliqués. Their clothing was very diverse. To dye fabrics, they mainly used three colours: red, white and blue. These three colours were attributed to the three zones of the universe (upper, middle and lower ones) and, accordingly, to the three main classes of the Indo-Iranians (warriors, priests and workers).

Not only dresses but also burial covers were decorated with sewn-on appliqués. That’s why, batches of appliqués of various shapes may be found at once in the rich burial mounds of the Sarmatian culture. Researchers believe that such appliqués were sewn onto fabric in a specific order: to design various decorative compositions.

The square sewn-on appliqué from our collection is decorated with rosettes in the middle and styled ram heads in the corners. There are also holes in the corners to sew the appliqué onto fabric. Such appliqués with geometric patterns or zoomorphic motifs such as animal ornaments were especially popular. Our item combines a number of decor details: a geometric square shape, a zoomorphic motif, heads of rams, and a plant that is a vortex rosette in the middle. The rosette personifies the “world tree”. The ram was intepreted as “a symbol of heavenly grace” in the Sarmatian times.

In general, the Sarmatian women thoughtfully and carefully decorated their clothes. For example, archaeologists never find clothes items with the same patterns. As a rule, appliqués were used to adorn hems, sleeves, and necks of dresses. Sometimes they were positioned close one another. There are items where appliqués were sewn almost without spacing, which gives an illusion of a solid metal strip.
In 2005, the appliqué and other items were exhibited at the Astrakhan Steppe Treasures show at the National Museum of the Palazzo Venezia in Rome.
#19
Date: 1st century BC
Technique: pressure forming
Dimensions: 0,1×1,5×1,5 cm
Collection: State budgetary institution of culture of the Astrakhan region “Astrakhan Museum-Reserve”
Copyright: State budgetary institution of culture of the Astrakhan region “Astrakhan Museum-Reserve”
Goskatalog Number: 17112942
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Sewn-on appliques

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