The culture of southern Dagestan blends a variety of artistic traditions arriving from the East. They are particularly vivid in how traditional costumes and jewellery look. Belts, bracelets and headpieces manufactured here were stylistically quite distinct from similar items created elsewhere. They were more gaily coloured, ornamented abundantly with inserted pieces of faceted coloured glass, coins, pendants and other fine details associated with Islamic symbols such as stars, the crescent or tents.

A graphic example of this aesthetic is a festive decoration worn by Avar girls and called kukem, or k’ouk’em. Its shape is reminiscent of a pointed arch that long ago was used in the decoration of Oriental architecture.

Among other decorative elements are varicoloured glass pastes and small paisley-shaped pendants. In the pre-Islamic art of Iran, they signified flame tips, one of the sacred attributes of Zoroastrianism, an ancient Eastern religious teaching.

The abundance of small pendants created a very bright image of a festively dressed girl who was expected to impress everyone around with wealth and opulence. The key was the decorative effect. The kukem was popular across Dagestan with Avar, Laks and Aghul girls. Similar headpieces were also worn by Lezgin women.