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Tatar women’s costume

Creation period
19th century
Dimensions
113x44 cm
Technique
Factory weaving, hand sewing, embroidery
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Tatar women’s costume
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You can see before you the traditional female costume worn by Saratov Mishar Tatars. It was assembled from individual components, and consists of a dress, bib, camisole, and a headdress. The costume is supplemented by Ichigi boots (kind of moccasins), as well as other decorative items, such as necklaces, bands, and bracelets. The dress, called a kyulmek, is made of gray cotton fabric, has a straight fit, a stand-up collar, and long sleeves. The bottom of the sleeves and hem are decorated with frills. A camisole — sleeveless, fitted clothing — was worn over the dress. The camisole on display is made of red silk with a brilliant floral pattern, and decorated with gold braiding - a decorative strip embroidered with gold, silver, or colored tinsel threads. The fasteners have one coin apiece sewn in along the sides in the form of a hook. The breast collar, called an alancha, is sewn of blue silk, and decorated with gold trim and embroidery in the form of a stylized floral pattern. This kind of stitching is called tambour stitching, and is done by making successive loops.

Ichigi boots are sewn from pieces of burgundy, green, and beige leather, forming a floral pattern. Ichigi boots are traditional Tatar footwear. Girls and young women preferred boots with heels, while older women wore ichigi boots with soft soles and leather overshoes.

The headdress, called a kalfak, is made from cherry-colored velvet, and decorated with gold embroidery with an archaic “tree of life” motif. The embroidery is made using a “laid work” technique. The kalfak, just like the alancha, was a mandatory part of the Tatar women’s costume. The metal bands that adorn the braid are made in the form of an openwork, oval metal plate with red glass inserts, and pendants with three silver coins. The necklace consists of small, reddish brown plastic beads and large metal buttons in the form of bells, decorated with filigree and granulation. A wide, oval bracelet made of yellow metal is decorated with large carnelian inserts, small turquoise stones, and delicate ornamentation.

Tatars from Saratov belong to a particular ethnic group called Mishars. According to researchers, their ancestors were the Golden Horde Tatars and the local indigenous population that lived in the steppes along the Volga River. The language spoken by Mishars is close to that spoken by Kazan Tatars.
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Tatar women’s costume

Creation period
19th century
Dimensions
113x44 cm
Technique
Factory weaving, hand sewing, embroidery
0
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To see AR mode in action:
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  5. Watch what happens on your phone screen whilst you flip through the pictures.
 
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