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False braids, Pincushion

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#1
False braids, Pincushion
#2
Ekaterina Katkileva
False braids
#3
The so-called false braids were popular among the indigenous small-numbered peoples of the Far North: the Khanty, Mansi and Nenets. They were mainly worn as jewelry by little girls of six to seven years old and young women. Among the Obdorsk Khanty, women of all ages wore false braids until very old age.

Throughout a woman’s life, the appearance of her false braids did not change. On the back of the head was an oval plate, covered with dense red cloth, decorated with several large copper buttons and tightly sewn with beads. From the plate, two long thick bundles of hair descended on the back from both sides — they were intertwined with ribbons and tightly wrapped in a spiral with a woolen cord on top.

Various pendants were attached to the lower ends of the braids: metal plaques, rings, small bells, soft woolen laces of red or burgundy shades. The entire structure was abundantly decorated with beads, metal chains, copper openwork pendants, badges, and rings. The harnesses were necessarily connected with each other by additional chains. It was believed that the brilliance and sound of metal scared evil spirits away.

In order to put on false braids, the girls divided their hair into two parts, leaving a straight parting, and made buns at the back of the head. False braids were attached to these buns and tightly fixed with strips of fabric.

In some tribes, false braids were not braided with hair, but already assembled; they were attached to a soft bandage, which consisted of three strips of cloth. One of them covered the forehead and the back of the head, while the other two were attached to it and crossed at the crown. These bands were abundantly decorated with beads.

False braids were difficult to make, expensive, bulky and heavy, so they were not worn every day. This massive decoration made the girl maintain her posture and not slouch.

A similar decoration was used in men’s hairstyles: an oval piece of birch bark or leather, covered with red cloth, on which several metal buttons, porcelain or simple beads were sewn. On the right and left sides, laces were sewn to the headdress, which wrapped tufts of hair, so the headwear was held on the back of the head.
#4
Полное наименование: False braids
Автор: Ekaterina Dmitrievna Katkileva
Дата создания: 2006
Техника: yarn, metal, handmade, weaving
Место создания: YaNAO (Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous District), Noyabrsk
Размеры: length — 150 cm
Коллекция: Ethnography
Правообладатель изображений: MBIC “Muravlenko Ecological and Local History Museum”
№ Госкаталога: 14215133
#5
Pincushion
#6
The Khanty, Mansi and many other peoples of the North attached particular importance to the storage of sewing needles. This small item was one of the most important in the household, as it could be used to make warm, durable clothing and survive the winter cold.

The needle was also treated with care, since it symbolized womanhood. For example, the Mansi, when a girl was born in the family, stuck a needle into a rag and took it to a cult place. And the Tromyogan Khanty, after the birth of the girl, brought small pincushions to the sanctuary.

The Tromyogan Khanty got their name from the right tributary of the Ob — the Tromyogan River, which flows through the territory of the Surgut region of the Khanty-Mansi Autonomous District.

Sewing needles were stored in special homemade pincushions. According to Khanty beliefs, the pincushion emphasized the sacredness of the female world, since it was inhabited by a female spirit.

The girl could receive a pincushion from her mother, grandmother or godmother. If a young girl made the item by herself, then she often copied the beaded embroidery, combination of colors and pattern from her mother. When a young girl got married or ran away from her home to her groom without permission, she took her bag for needlework and pincushion with her. If these items remained at home, the parents realized that something had happened to their daughter and began to look for her.

The pincushion was also used in the wedding ceremony. For example, when the eastern Khanty took the bride around the groom’s house, they put the pincushion on the floor. A married Khanty woman always had her needlework by her side, thus maintaining the sacred connection with womanhood. She kept the pincushion with needles in a special hand-made bag called “tutchan” or in a special ornamented box made of fir bark.

The pincushion was also part of the Khanty burial rituals. Together with other personal belongings and a hand-made bag, it followed its owner to the other world. A pincushion “died” when a hole was cut in it.

The traditional Khanty pincushion from the Muravlenko museum’s collection is made of multi-colored cloth. An unknown craftswoman embroidered the soft part with a national pattern, placed a sacred image of a wood grouse in the center of the inner square, and trimmed the pincushion with soft mink fur along the edges.
#7
Полное наименование: Pincushion of the Khanty women
Дата создания: 2011
Техника: weaving, beadwork
Место создания: YaNAO (Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous District), Muravlenko
Размеры: 20×20 cm
Коллекция: Ethnography
Правообладатель изображений: MBIC “Muravlenko Ecological and Local History Museum”
№ Госкаталога: 14215186
#8
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False braids, Pincushion

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