There were noticeable differences between the clothes of Northern, Southern and Eastern Khanty people, including the materials from which they were sewn. Northern deer breeders made almost everything from reindeer fur. The skins of northern birds such as loons, swans and ducks were also used. Only women were engaged in dressmaking and tailoring.
Southern and Eastern Khanty people have always been engaged in hunting, fishing and farming. They often used nettle cloth to make their clothes. People harvested nettle in October, trying to complete the collection before sunrise. The stalks were cut off at the root, tied into bundles and hung to dry. Then the outer hard layer was removed from each stalk, and the inner part was kneaded; nettle threads were spun, and canvas was woven from them on homemade looms. Southern and Eastern Khanty also made fur products.
The decoration of traditional Khanty clothes was laconic. It compositionally emphasized the shape and design of the item. A characteristic element of clothing decoration was a colored cloth edging, which was sewn along the seam lines. It emphasized the ratio of vertical and horizontal lines, texture and color of the item. The cut and decoration of fur headdresses with edging was especially expressive. In winter, Khanty people usually wore a fur bonnet, which was tied under the chin.
The bonnet from the museum was made from the skins of loons and reindeer fur. The headdress was sewn from two parts with fine oblique stitching using sinew threads. The first part is a wide strip across the head. It was made of small trapezoidal pieces of loon skins. The second part is a one-piece small plate of semicircular shape, covering the back of the head. It was also made from the skin of this northern bird. Two wedges of brown reindeer fur were inserted at the bottom in the connecting seam of these parts. The trim around the face was made of white fur, and a thin tie-strap was sewn into it.
This hat was used as a
women’s winter headdress by the Obdorsk Khanty in the second half of the 19th
and early 20th century. The museum exhibit was made in the first quarter of the
20th century in the town of Obdorsk, Tobolsk Governorate (now Salekhard). The
bonnet was collected by the local historian Grigory Matveevich
Dmitriev-Sadovnikov in 1915.


