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Rugudzha Wedding Headpiece

Creation period
19th-20th centuries
Dimensions
30x24,3 cm
Technique
Silver, pearl, coins, pigmented glass, engraving, niello, filigree, print
10
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#1
Rugudzha Wedding Headpiece
#2
The most important component of the wedding attire of a Dagestani bride was decoration. For example, in the village of Rugudzha, a bride on her wedding day would be wearing up to six kilograms of silver. One of the oldest elements of the attire was sew-on jewelry, and marghal (or margal) was one of that. This is a unique Rugudzha artefact, not to be found in any other Dagestani village. It was worn exclusively on the wedding day and was transferred from generation to generation. 

Marghal is a piece of expensive cloth (usually silk or brocade) that was fixed at the back of the girl’s head with the help of ribbons. Usually it was of deep burgundy or violet color and performed the function of a protective amulet.

Traditionally, the bridal attire was supposed to ward off the evil eye. At the moment of the change of her social status, the girl was believed to be most vulnerable to devilry. Therefore, the young woman was accompanied to the bridegroom’s home under the screen of night. The marghal covered her face, and the ring of coins would scare off evil spirits. 
#8
The specimen exhibited in the P.S. Gamzatova Dagestan Museum of Fine Arts is abundantly embroidered with silver plates, pendants and coins with various markings. Amongst those, one can come across such ancient protective amulets as swastika, solar signs: crosses, circles and spirals symbolizing connection with solar elements, and also floral ornaments. Each element was defined its exact place on the cloth base.
The word ‘marghal’ means ‘pearl’. Small river pearls were the main element of decoration: they are sewn on the bottom of the item. The pearl pattern formed five triangle escallops, which symbolized the image of home. Most often small and unpolished pearls were used, as that jewel was expensive and there were few craftswomen who could work with pearls. Small silver pendants are also triangle and decorated with floral ornament and coins.
#6
The sewed-on pieces were manufactured by local craftsmen. A festivity was arranged on the day when the work on the marghal commenced in the house of the bride. On the day of the wedding the marghal was worn above under-headgear, and a nice shawl was put on top.
#9
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Rugudzha Wedding Headpiece

Creation period
19th-20th centuries
Dimensions
30x24,3 cm
Technique
Silver, pearl, coins, pigmented glass, engraving, niello, filigree, print
10
Point your smartphone camera to open in the app
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To see AR mode in action:
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  2. iOS or Android;
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  5. Watch what happens on your phone screen whilst you flip through the pictures.
 
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