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Stockings, Leather slippers

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Stockings, Leather slippers
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Stockings
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Patterned knitting is one of the most common women’s crafts of the Khanty and Mansi peoples. The traditions of this craft have been preserved to this day almost in its original form. Knitting techniques and patterns are passed on from generation to generation in the Khanty families, and it is only the yarn composition and the palette of available shades that have changed.
 
Among the indigenous peoples of the North, researchers distinguish two types of women’s stockings ― “hansan wei” and “yutlan wei”. The top of the hansan wei stocking is decorated with a pattern along the entire length. In the upper part, there are large and complex patterns, and in the lower part, there are three rows of smaller and simpler ones.
 
The upper part of the yutlan wei stockings is knitted in the same way as that of hansan wei, and the lower part is made of white threads, without decorating it with a pattern. When such a stocking is put on, its middle part is folded, and the unornamented part is hidden inside the folds. Such stockings are considered festive.
 
The museum houses the stockings of the first type, hansan wei, the fully ornamented ones. They are quite long, reaching up to the knee. The top is decorated with horizontal stripes of varying width. Such patterns are called ribbon patterns, and each of them has its own name. The top of the boot is decorated with a wide ornament. The sock of such a stocking is either left monochromatic, or decorated with alternating colored stripes and zigzags.
 
In the old days, only black, white and gray yarn was used for knitting, but over time colored yarn began to be used too. The basis of traditional stockings was made of white sheep wool, and patterns were created from yarn dyed with aniline or vegetable colors, mainly red and blue.
 
The upper part of the stockings was created based on a traditional Khanty elastic band, which was knitted with threads of two contrasting colors. Thus the stocking fitted the leg tightly, but not too tight. Knitting an elastic band could be circular ― with five needles ― or linear — with two. The top, like the entire stocking, was knitted with a stockinette stitch, with five needles.
 
Craftswomen learnt the main patterns still in their childhood. In the process of knitting, they could change the patterns as they liked, but in order to make the “right” stockings, it was necessary to meet the three conditions: the traditional color, shape and technology.
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Полное наименование: Patterned women’s stockings
Автор: Nina Makarovna Kaksina
Дата создания: the end of the 19th century
Техника: knitting
Место создания: Kazym village, Beloyarsky district
Размеры: 47×22.5 cm
Коллекция: MAIC “Ethnocultural Center”
Правообладатель изображений: MAIC “Ethnocultural Center”
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Leather slippers
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The exhibition presents leather slippers, national summer women’s shoes of the indigenous Northern peoples. In the Khanty language, they are called “niry”.
 
The Ob Ugrians had different kinds of traditional shoes, depending on the season. In summer, the so-called piston-shaped shoes were worn: heelless slippers or boots with a curved platform and skin gathered in folds above the foot. A high leather boot-top could be attached to short niry (or chirki). Poor families, who owned only a few deer, used the skin sparingly and, if possible, replaced it with fabric. High boots protected their owner from insects. Such thin boots were worn in fall and sometimes even in winter, weather permitting.
 
Niry were made of elk or deer “kamus” skins (skins taken from the legs of an animal) or of leather, including fish skin. Before sewing shoes, the kamuses were always smoked, so that the footwear would not be damaged by moths. The soles were cut out of strong and non-slip “brushes” (skins between the hooves of a deer or elk) or of the deer forehead skin. Before putting on the niry, the Khanty wrapped the legs in cloth or put on warm stockings, which were made of wool or fur.
 
The indigenous peoples mostly decorated footwear with embroidery, and summer women’s niry were beaded. And the northern Khanty decorated their shoes with fabric appliques.
 
The leather niry that are on display at the exhibition were made around the middle of the 20th century in the village of Kazym in the Beloyarsky district of the Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug. The slippers are made of four parts, and different materials were used. The shoe sole and top of forefront were made of black leather. A triangular insert at the vamp (the upper front part of a boot) and the collar is trimmed with a drawstring made of brown fabric. A drawstring is a stitched or folded string in the seam of the material of a garment or a bag, which can be pulled to tighten or close it. When tightened, it helps create curved folds. An elastic band is inserted into the drawstring of the niry, tied with a knot at the back. The trim, insert and collar around the insert and edging are ornamented with beads.
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Полное наименование: Leather slippers, summer women’s shoes (Niry)
Автор: N. A.Grishkina
Техника: beadweaving, handmade
Размеры: 6.5×10.5×6.5 cm
Правообладатель изображений: MAIC “Ethnocultural Center”
Коллекция: MAIC “Ethnocultural Center”
Дата создания: the mid-20th century
Место создания: Kazym village, Beloyarsky district
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Stockings, Leather slippers

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