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Women’s homespun shirt, Homespun rushnyk

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#6
Women’s homespun shirt
#3
This women’s shirt made of coarse homespun linen was handmade by Anna Romanovna Stetsishina in 1916.

The shirt was the most common example of underwear of the early Slavs. This was the simplest type of attire: the fabric was folded in half and a hole was made for the head. Gradually, people began to fasten shirts on the sides and add rectangular pieces of fabric — sleeves.

In Rus, a women’s shirt was a fundamental element of the national costume. In the southern part of the country, a skirt called a “poneva” was worn on top, and in the central and northern parts women put on sundresses. Shirts could be one-piece and compound. A compound shirt had two parts — an upper and a lower one.

This shirt from the collection of the Novorossiysk Historical Museum-Reserve was made of coarse homespun linen and cut out of rectangular pieces. The sleeves were connected to the main part at a right angle. In general, the cut was extremely simple and economical — all pieces of fabric came in handy. The shirt had rectangular and wedge-shaped parts. A stand-up collar was sewn to the neck of the shirt. There were folds made along the neckline. The collar, shoulders, sleeves and cuffs of this shirt were embroidered with cotton threads.

It has long been believed that apart from serving the aesthetic purpose, national costume was also supposed to protect its wearer from evil. In Rus, embroidery was of paramount importance. According to the beliefs of the early Slavs, only those parts of the shirt through which evil forces could access the body and soul were usually decorated with embroidery. The shirt itself also protected against dark forces, so the so-called protective pattern was applied where the fabric ended: on the cuffs, on the collar, on the hem and cuts, and on the sleeves. The seams with which the shirt was embroidered should be countable — that is, performed according to the number of fabric threads.

There were all kinds of shirts for various life occasions: for divination, for working in the field (mowing), for feeding babies, as well as ceremonial and festive clothes. In her dowry chest, a bride would keep 5–6 or even a dozen shirts. The most beautiful one was worn on the wedding day. It was sewn from the best homespun cloth.
#7
Наименование: Women’s homespun shirt
Дата создания: 1916
Техника: hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery
Размеры: 80×56 cm
Правообладатель изображений: Novorossiysk Historical Museum-Reserve
Коллекция: Novorossiysk Historical Museum-Reserve
Место создания: Lviv region
#8
Homespun rushnyk
#5
A rushnyk is a towel made of homespun canvas, decorated with embroidery and lace, an object of Slavic folk culture and art. The rushnyk was considered sacred and was treated with great respect.

The red and black colors that are prevalent in the embroidery of the towel were chosen on purpose. Red is the color of the sun, warmth, beauty, and blood (life force), and black is a symbol of wealth, black soil, and earth.

The rushnyk was not only an adornment of everyday life, but it also symbolically reminded of the invisible ties that connect each person with their family and ancestors. The number of towels indicated how rich the family was, and the complexity of embroidery displayed the skill and diligence of the hostess. The subjects used in embroidery had deep historical roots and carried a sacred meaning.

In addition to ritual and decorative significance, rushnyks also had a purely practical application. According to the functions they performed, they had different names. An “utiralnyk” was used for wiping the face and hands, dishes and a tabletop. Special towels were woven and embroidered for major annual holidays. For example, on Maslenitsa there was a custom to present a towel — a “blinnik” (from the Russian “blin” meaning “pancake”) — in order to thank the hosts. The Easter rushnyk was intended for baked bread and Easter cakes. A travel rushnyk, usually small, with a modest but carefully designed embroidery, was given to those who left their home: soldiers and merchants. Bread and salt were served on a “bread-and-salt” rushnyk. The wedding rushnyks were most numerous. The most important wedding rushnyk was called “venchalny”.

The towel from the collection of the Novorossiysk Historical Museum-Reserve was made by Ksenia Gerasimovna Savelieva in the Saratov governorate. The intended use of this towel is not known for certain. The fabric is homespun and is of very good quality. This indicates that it was made for a special occasion. The ends of the main canvas are decorated with floral patterns. The pattern is embroidered with red, green and black threads. The symbolism of embroidery makes it possible to assume that this was a wedding rushnyk made by a young girl before the wedding, since from ancient times it was believed that the production of wedding towels was the duty of the bride. The Slavs perceived the rushnyk as a canvas on which the past, present and future were depicted with a red thread. It was believed that while embroidering a wedding rushnyk the bride embroiders her family’s future.
#10
Наименование: Homespun rushnyk
Дата создания: the late 19th — early 20th century
Техника: hand weaving, hand embroidery, handmade lace
Размеры: 26,6×38 cm
Правообладатель изображений: Novorossiysk Historical Museum-Reserve
Коллекция: Novorossiysk Historical Museum-Reserve
Место создания: Saratov Governorate, the Russian Empire
#9
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Women’s homespun shirt, Homespun rushnyk

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