Kosoklinnyi sarafan
Kosoklinnyi means that it is sewn of oblique wedges of fabric.
For the first time, the term “sarafan” was recorded in Nickonovskaya chronicle in 1376. Since the XVIth century the kind of ladies’ wear which looked like a dress of trapezoidal shape without sleeves or with sleeves was called sarafan. Also, sarafan could look like a bell-bottomed skirt or skirt — sun (the construction of the skirt — sun is circle on plane) with straps. Fabric of the skirt-sun is gauged round the waist.
Kosoklinnyi sarafans were sewn raspashnye and gloukhie. Raspashnye sarafans had a vertical cut on the front in the center. To add to that, raspashnoy sarafan had a fastener in the place of the cut. Gloukhie sarafans didn’t have a vertical cut on the front in the center. Through fastener of the raspashnoy sarafan was decorated with loop made of cord, buttons, braid or tape, gold lace. At the same time the fastener was the sarafan trimming. If widths of cloth were sewn together, the fastener was almost always imitated.
The word “sarsfan” in order to denote ladies’ wear was rarely used. The words which denoted features of construction or fabric were often used: klinnik, glukhar’, sitsevik (chintz), krashennik (printed). Little by little, sarafan became casual wear beyond the Urals and in the south provinces of Russia.
By the XVIIIth — XIXth century merchant women, merchant’s wives, townswomen of modest means had worn sarafans everywhere.
Kosoklinnyi sarafan was restored in All-Russian Art scientific restoration center named after academician I. E. Grabar’. Before the restoration sarafan was dirty, fabric was faded in some places, there were numerous tears, the fabric was worn-out. After the restoration the exhibited object was cleaned, duplication and conservation of the surface were carried out. The sarafan acquired exposition appearance.
Embroidered with spun gold soutache is sewn on the vertical cut on the front in the center. Soutache is a silk wattled cord to trim dresses. Soutache imitates fastener with twenty casted gilded buttons.


